Terroir Read online

  Contents

  Title Page

  Dedication

  Quotes

  Terroir

  Leverets

  The Shoemakers of Nakasero

  A Glass of Water

  In Theory, Theories Exist

  Pianoforte

  Angie

  Bulrushes

  Jenny Brown’s Point

  Solomon

  Where Stories Go

  The Glover

  Cherry Tree

  The Dig

  Fire Fox

  Acknowledgements

  About the Author

  Copyright

  Terroir

  Graham Mort

  for Maggie

  ‘We are our own dark horses’

  Laurens van der Post, Venture to the Interior

  ‘Terroir can be very loosely translated as “a sense of place”, which is embodied in certain characteristic qualities, the sum of the effects that the local environment has had on the production of the product.’

  Wikipedia, 2014

  ‘In spite of the arguments, I remained firmly convinced that consciousness was not reducible to science, namely that there would always be something – the terroir of the individual – that defied science to explain.’

  Sophieb, Brooklynguy’s Wine and Food Blog

  ‘Laissez le vin de se faire.’

  (Let the wine make itself.)

  Old French saying

  TERROIR

  André turned from the road, dropping the bike into a lower gear, twisting the throttle, taking the sloping track gently. Through the wrought-iron gates, past the closely planted vines to the white house with green shutters and pantile roof. His breath misted the visor as the bike slowed, gravel popping from its tyres. Something felt right about this: the way the vines fell away from the house, the spire of the church beyond, gun-smoke clouds, the metal roof of the winery glinting. He’d arrived: André Arnault. Enologist. That sounded good. Fresh leaves shone on the vines. They were young, grafted onto American root stock. The yellow flowers of hawkbit and the white trumpets of convolvulus showed where the weeds were moving in. It would all need work, and quickly.

  A black Mercedes saloon was parked on the forecourt, beside it a battered bicycle and a dusty Peugeot van with a dented wing. André switched off the engine, resting the bike on its side stand. It was a BMW twin: sixteen valves, air-cooled and fast as a snake. He could feel the heat coming off the cylinders against his legs. He hung his helmet from one handlebar and draped his leather jacket over the saddle. Since his last visit someone had put up curtains in the plain two-storey house and there were new padlocks on the winery doors. An old man in overalls was brushing out the garage, pulling his head back from the dust. He paused to watch André dismount.

  Lower down the valley he’d passed a scarecrow dressed as Osama bin Laden. The locals must have a sense of humour. The old man put a finger to his nose and blew out a stream of snot before wiping his fingers on his trousers. Maybe not. André gave him a curt nod as he passed.

  – Monsieur.

  Raising a hand from his brush, the old man nodded back and muttered something towards the bike. He reminded André of his grandfather, knotted to the land like thorn roots, a real paysan.

  The door opened before André could ring the bell. Gaspard dressed like an American: Nikes, a blue polo shirt pulled tight over his gut and low-slung Levis. He was a head shorter than André with flat ginger curls and moist blue eyes. He held out a damp hand, small in André’s grip. His arms were hairless, his eyelashes pale. He wore a gold watch with a chunky metal bracelet.

  – André! You’re on time. Cool! Come in. Ça va?

  – Ça va, Gaspard. Good to see you.

  He’d insisted on first names. Now he walked ahead of André, slightly bow-legged; a walk that made up for his lack of height with its swagger. Like a dog with two cocks, his father would say. The house had been tastefully furnished with plain modern cabinets and armchairs. The only gesture to tradition were the lace hangings in the windows. The house was new by local standards and stood in just over thirty hectares of vines, west of the village with its square-set church and tidy houses with gabled windows. All built from clean honey-coloured stone. Typical Bordeaux country.

  A slim black-haired woman appeared behind Gaspard carrying a folded newspaper. Maybe ten years younger, thirty-ish, dressed in a dark pencil skirt and cream blouse.

  – Ah, Ghislaine. Meet André, my – our – enologist.

  Gaspard smiled as he said the word, rolling it around his mouth as if tasting wine before spitting. He said it the way André thought of it, with relish. As if he’d been taught a certain pronunciation. As if he’d learned to savour things he had no right to. His wife had a firm nose, small ears set close to her head, strong dark eyebrows that gave her face a slightly severe look. Green eyes, like slate under water. She didn’t smile. Her hand was cool. André noticed a single silver bangle on her wrist above a square silver watch. Matching. Tastefully understated. Expensive, of course.

  – Enchanté!

  He thought he noticed a glimmer of amusement at the formal greeting. Maybe she thought him old-fashioned. Maybe he was trying too hard. Her husband was scratching his chest under the polo shirt. He had white scars on the underside of both arms as if he’d defended himself against a blade. It was weird how someone as meaty as Gaspard Hubert could have such a delicate wife. Gaspard turned to her now.

  – Coffee, darling. Do you mind? We have to talk.

  She smiled then, a formal grimace. No make-up.

  – Of course.

  Her calves flexed as she walked away. Her voice was smoother than Gaspard’s with no trace of a regional accent. As soon as Gaspard had called him – after that first contact from Gaultier – André had him as a Breton. Cider country. What he knew about wine was questionable. What he knew about making money? Well, that was something else.

  Place de L’autel was a typical small vineyard on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. After generations of the land being split into small parcels, younger wine growers were trying to build up their hectares again. Place de L’autel had been sold to pay inheritance tax. The old wine grower was the last of his line and his kids couldn’t wait to part with it. It was tiny by the standards of Bordeaux or Languedoc where André’s father managed a cooperative that drew in over a dozen growers. In Burgundy, where they grew wine on a handkerchief, they’d understand. The only way to get land there was to marry it.

  Place de L’autel had been bought up by a garagiste. One of the new breed with new ideas. The idea had been to rip out the old vines, re-plant, reduce output, increase quality, sell the wine on the stock market before bottling, then sell the land at an inflated price. Only in Bordeaux was that possible, where wine was sold as a future – like tin, or copper or coffee. So far, so good, but the new owner had been in a hurry. More interested in growing money than wine. Without the quality – and without a good wine agent to get him into foreign markets – the enterprise had gone under after two poor harvests. And it wasn’t just the harvest that could do for you. The old wine-growing families still controlled a lot of Bordeaux. Aristocrats or nouveaux riches who’d blended in after a few generations. War profiteers and grocers, his father called them. They could freeze out newcomers if they thought they were rocking the boat – and it had been rocking for a good few years now.

  Truth was, most of the garagistes had made their money doing something else. They could afford to take a long-term view, wait for their investment to mature. It was wine, after all, something that was harvested, that lived and breathed, that was aged to perfection. Or close to it. After all, nothing was perfect. Gaspard was a typical entrepreneur. He was getting rid of a chain of small supermarkets in Tours and Limoges. He didn’t believe
in standing still. Better to shift your money around. Some here, some there, some hidden. He was worth millions. Part of the money was going into a new chain of internet cafés, part of it into wine. The rest into property and … well, who knew what? Somehow, André didn’t want to know.

  They moved into the living room. When the coffee came, there were brown sugar cubes in a bowl and a homemade almond biscuit on each saucer. André murmured his thanks and again he thought he saw a glimmer in Ghislaine’s eyes.

  Gaspard was talking about Gaultier, the wine agent who’d tipped him off about Place de L’autel, suggesting that André – only in his third year as an enologist, but one of his best students for years – should be brought in to inspect the property and the vines. Gaultier had been a visiting lecturer when André was studying for his degree. He’d survived Dien Bien Phu as a teenager, walked with a stick and had a lazy eye where a bullet fragment had hit the nerve. Wine had made him successful, charismatic, and he had connections all over the wine-growing world, from Chile to California, Bordeaux to the Barossa Valley. So André owed him one. And the terroir was promising – well-drained, gravelly soil with plenty of limestone on south-facing slopes. The last owner had got most things right, planting Merlot vines on the lower slopes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc a little higher on lighter soil. The winery was well equipped with a new hydraulic press, stainless-steel fermenters that were temperature controlled and inspection tables that could be steam cleaned. There was a white-tiled laboratory that doubled as an office with refractometers and a computer. The cellars were in a long hangar-like building, also temperature controlled. The house and the annexe were eighties build. There was nothing of the chateau here. Everything was modern, built from breeze blocks and cement, but, above all, hygienic.

  They sipped the coffee. Gaspard crossed his stubby legs and looked expectant. André’s plan was simple: to reduce production, discarding excess fruit; to de-leaf, discouraging mould; to harvest and sort as late as possible. All by hand. Then to carry out the second fermentation in new oak barrels. The result, if the harvest was good, would be a new-style Bordeaux – rich in berry and cherry flavours, high in alcohol and with a long chocolaty finish. None of that leather and incense taste that the old wines had. The rest would be up to the agent. Gaultier was on first name terms with Robert Parker and a decent score in The Wine Advocate would ensure that the whole batch could be sold before bottling. If not in the first year, then maybe in the second or third. But none of that was André’s concern. He was here to make wine, that was all, to have the free hand that Gaspard had promised him back in April, slapping him on the knee as they sat in the garden with a beer and looked down at the vines.

  – I’m in your hands. I know about marketing and finance…

  Gaspard took a pull at the bottle, wiping his lips.

  – I love wine like I love women – but it’s just as mysterious.

  He grinned, showing teeth that were too white, too even. They looked unnatural. Veneered. Expensive.

  – But I learn quickly. And what I learn…

  He tapped his forehead with the bottle neck.

  – …I don’t forget.’

  André was watching a white van speed along the road towards the village. He knew already what his father would think of Hubert. An arriviste. A bullshitter. Get rich quick and then fuck off out of it. He was still talking. Talking about André’s future somewhere beyond the veil of heat that made the treeline shimmer.

  – Gaultier tells me you’re one of the best. Up and coming. I’ll add twenty-five per cent to your current salary and five per cent of our annual profits over fifty thousand after we’ve settled overheads. I won’t interfere with what you do, if you stick to the job. But I want to retain Gaultier as a consultant. That’ll give us both back-up.

  That was sensible. More than sensible; it was a no-brainer. Stay where he was making a mediocre Pomerol with a vineyard that was owned by a multi-national through several subsidiaries. Or be his own man, start something new. His father always said that you couldn’t grow wine in a test tube. You had to put your hands into the soil. That’s where terroir began, that was how to understand it. With the hands. Soil was like sex Gaultier had said in one lecture – it was everything you needed to know and never could.

  – Ok, it’s a deal. But I’ll need to start work soon.

  – Move into the annexe as soon as you’re ready. Ghislaine will be here in the week to help out. We can hire labour in the village when we need it. Old Raymond’ll help out. He worked for the last owner and knows the ropes. I’ll be busy in Tours for a few months yet, but back some weekends. We’ll harvest in October?

  – October, or even early November if we can wait that long. It depends.

  André looked up at the sky.

  – Timing is everything with wine.

  A platitude, but one Gaspard would grasp.

  – Cool. Can’t wait. Look after the grapes and I’ll look after you.

  And they had clinked bottles to clinch it. André knew that Gaspard liked him because he was a peasant at heart, just like himself. Despite the bullshit and fancy car and the bling, he’d always be more at home with his own sort.

  Early July and the grapes were already hanging on the vines. André borrowed the old Peugeot and moved his things into the annexe. Like the house, it was plainly furnished but had its own shower and kitchen area. Apart from tending the vines and cleaning and testing the equipment in the winery, his main job was to watch over the construction of the new oak barrels. The staves had to be toasted to perfection – a light shade of chestnut that would add smoke and complexity to the brambly wine he imagined. That meant hurtling backwards and forwards on the bike to the cooper, leaving the two lads he’d engaged from the village with Raymond, who’d grumble at them when necessary. Eric and Paul. Brothers. Both with bleached hair and gold earrings and wide brown eyes. They’d proved to be decent lads, hard working if you watched them, and willing to learn.

  Each day they’d work their way down the vines, weeding, removing leaves to allow air to circulate. Later they’d take out excess fruit. To make a new-style wine it was necessary to return to some – not all – of the old methods. That was the irony. At the cooperative he’d watched his father fume as tractors drew up, unable to unload the fruit that was already badly bruised, watching it stew in the sun. Picking was by machine and machines detached the fruit from the stems, but a lot of that went into the must. Quality control was scant when production was on such a vast scale. They produced five wines from a vin de pays to an appellation contrôlée, but they had no pride in it any more. And the label meant nothing.

  The only real way to harvest was by tasting the fruit, then picking, then sorting by hand. It was painstaking and time consuming. To make wine, Gaultier had taught him, it was necessary to become intimate with the fruit. That’s where hygiene started, by rooting out the spoiled grapes and treating the rest as precious. You had to love the vines. You had to immerse yourself in the soil and its history, every stone, every drop of sweat and blood it had soaked up. That was to understand terroir, what it had meant to families before mechanisation. It wasn’t just land and weather and minerals, but everything that had happened on the land and to it. It was history and future together. When you drank wine, Gaultier had said, you’re sipping time and weather, the rising and setting sun, even tasting your own mortality. That had taken a long time to understand. That’s what the cult of Dionysus had been about. Gaultier had taught them about that too, how a libation of blood had blessed the new wine.

  Each day André rose at six-thirty, showered, then went into the main house for breakfast. He’d sit down at the kitchen table where Ghislaine had made coffee and laid out bread, croissants and jam. On the first day she’d been wearing jeans and a pale green tee shirt. He couldn’t help noticing that her breasts were small and pointed. Neat, like everything about her. He’d stood awkwardly in the doorway.

  – Bonjour, Madame.

  She
’d smiled then.

  – Bonjour André! But Madame? Ghislaine, please.

  – OK. Sorry … I…

  – No need to be sorry, but no need to be formal, either. Now: à table…

  She ate with deft and refined movements. Breaking the croissants in slender fingers, buttering slices of bread delicately. He eyes caught the light, intensely green under dark hair that was shoulder length. Glossy with health or wealth, or both.

  – What?

  She’d caught him watching her. He smiled.

  – If it’s to be informal, may I?

  He broke off a hunk of bread and dunked it into the bowl of coffee.

  – That’s how we had breakfast on my father’s vineyard when I was a kid. Me, my mother and brother.

  – Touché!

  She tried the same trick, but dribbled coffee down her tee shirt. When she laughed her eyebrows tilted and her mouth showed rounded teeth that crossed over slightly at the front. Her face lost all severity and her tongue moistened her lips quickly, like a cat’s.

  All day he was busy with the vineyard. He ate with Ghislaine each evening, then went into the village for a drink, or took the bike for a spin, or called his father, or chilled out in his room listening to rock music on his iPod. Otherwise, there was a TV and a satellite dish, but he used it only for the news. Days at Place de L’autel passed comfortably enough: little by little the grapes swelled and the vineyard came back under control.

  Each day brought another flawless sky. A fortnight passed. A month. One evening Ghislaine appeared with her hair cut short. The next morning she was wearing shorts and a man’s check shirt tied at the waist. Her belly button was decorated with a silver ring piercing. André must have looked surprised.

  – I’m going mad around the house, I want to help.

  He poured a bowl of coffee and went stupid. Like his father used to say: act numb.

  – With?

  – With the vineyard. I’ll do anything. I need a change from playing mum.